![[New Brand]Omar Afridi 2023-24AW Collection Report](http://fascinate-online.myshopify.com/cdn/shop/articles/2927b8b3658d4fc2d659677c3375c697_b5dd1afc-7d5e-4801-8c83-08460f37fb91.jpg?v=1696915528&width=1100)
Today, I will provide an overview and a collection report of the Omar Afridi brand's 23-24AW collection, which we are introducing for the first time this season.
This fall-winter season, Omar Afridi is among the new brands we are excited to offer at FASCINATE_KYOTO in Kawaramachi.
This brand was one of the most anticipated during our buying trip to Tokyo. Omar Afridi made its debut at the London Collection this fall-winter season with a runway show format.
Based in London, it's an up-and-coming brand managed by two Japanese individuals and is one of the brands garnering attention both domestically and internationally.
Brand Profile
Omar Afridi is a unisex brand by two Japanese, Tensou Ichimori and Jun Kikuta, rebranded from its predecessor brand "LEON BARA" and re-launched in 2019-20AW (autumn-winter) under the name of its founder, Omar Afridi.
Based in London, the brand proposes the seemingly opposing concept of "Primitive Mode" built from the brand concept of "Human striving and Achievement".
Interests and perspectives from different angles clash and react to each other, and create products according to each season's concept based on the underlying values that the brand shares.
The brand pursues the relationship between craftsmanship and materials through creation, adding elegance and a bit of playfulness to standard items such as shirts, jackets, and denim, and creating designs that are constructed by carefully considering the elements of coexistence between people and clothing, and incorporating them into high-quality, unique fabrics carefully selected in Europe and Japan.
Designer : Hayate Ichimori / Jun Kikuta
Production : London
23-24AW Collection Season Concept
- PRIMITIVE TECH -
Imagine listening to techno music in the woods. Equipment is set up amongst nature, and individuals dressed in edgy attire dance to the beat of techno. It's intriguing how music genres can influence fashion. Various genres have emerged since the '70s, each with its unique style.
Even within the realm of techno, variations in speed, noise, and type can influence the crowd. I recall a time listening to minimal techno where a woman, dressed unlike anyone else, wore what seemed to be a relaxed cotton dress, dancing as if she was intertwined with the music. The apparent difference in her attire, which didn't quite match the deep woods techno scene, looked cool to me.
Despite the disparity, there was a sense of unity in that space. It might be about the balance that constructs the ambiance.
Switching topics, the architect Le Corbusier brought about a revolution in architecture using reinforced concrete, known as the Domino system, in an era where stone and brick structures were predominant.
His constructions emphasized brutalist materials but once inside, the concrete backdrop accentuated colors and forms artistically.
The gap between the exterior and interior is evident here too, akin to a techno dance in serenity, deviating from the typical modernist pursuit of functionality.
For AUTUMN WINTER 2023, garments like classic herringbone coats with three-layered pockets, cocoon coats crafted from dry, soft dobby tweed in earthy browns, and minimal grays, as well as scarves with hand-drawn check patterns, lightweight parkas in bright primary colors are introduced. Additionally, we see mixed textures with items such as fleece fabrics, lambskin shirts, Loro Piana's checked wool tech parkas, and many more.
The color palette draws inspiration from Le Corbusier's interiors. Accessories that seem crafted from viscosity are made of aluminum and were produced in collaboration with Korean artist LEE SISAN.
Tokyo Exhibition Venue
The exhibition in Japan will be held at the ON TOKYO Showroom, our agent.
It's my first time at this exhibition venue.
The space is characterized by a concrete floor with white as the base color, creating a stark atmosphere.
Wooden pillars add a touch of warmth to the space.
During the day, ample natural light pours in through the large windows, making it a refined setting.
The works on display at the venue are lined up in accordance with this season's theme named PRIMITIVE TECH.
The collection primarily features urban and classic materials in monochrome, contrasting with eye-catching blue and yellow nylon materials.
Meeting with Designer Mr. Ichimori from Omar Afridi
Upon arrival at the exhibition venue, I was warmly greeted by Mr. Ichimori, one of the designers for Omar Afridi.
As we sat down, our initial conversation revolved around Kyoto, where I work.
Mr. Ichimori spent his student days in Tokyo, but he mentioned how he used to enjoy bar-hopping in Kyoto.
To save money for drinks, he would often opt to travel to Kyoto by express bus instead of the bullet train, a memorable anecdote.
Although he's Japanese, I had imagined that someone who chose to work as a designer in a distant place like London might be hard to approach. However, given our close age group and his friendly demeanor, he was surprisingly easy to relate to.
He introduced me to some of his favorite bars from back then. One that stood out was "Kazubar," a hidden BAR reminiscent of a derelict building, illuminated solely by candlelight.
Located on the third floor of a building in the narrow alleys of Kiyamachi, this underground bar, lacking even a signboard, surprisingly bustled mainly with foreign clientele.
If you ever visit FASCINATE_KYOTO and feel like grabbing a drink before heading home, I'd be happy to recommend this spot. Do pay a visit!
A New Standard Created with British Tailored Rugged Materials and Casual Nylon
Let's get back to the main topic and delve into the exhibition review!
Their collection, based in London, primarily revolves around distinctly British materials such as tweed and herringbone. However, their styling and material use remains inherently Japanese and unrestrained.
For instance, they've paired short-length outerwear with a pronounced waist shape with skirts, creating an extreme X-line silhouette. Another notable design was a jumpsuit look created by tucking in a nylon zip-up hoodie.
This free-spirited approach isn't just evident in the juxtaposition of contrasting materials as represented by the theme "PRIMITIVE TECH" but also in the unique silhouettes their wearables possess.
While mixing low-tech classical wear with high-tech outdoor wear became trendy some time ago, their collection exuded a distinctiveness that felt entirely different, boasting a powerful presence.
Highlights of Omar Afridi 23-24AW Collection and Buyer's Recommended Items
Of course, we want to convey the brand's colors effectively! Since this is our first time handling this brand, we have deliberately selected items that function even if a customer buys just one piece from our store.
The first item that caught my eye at the exhibition venue was the wool-hemp herringbone series.
The herringbone material is the distinct British aesthetic, is both refined and embodies the ruggedness of the hemp.
Most of the items, like the drizzle jacket and cargo pants, are designed for relaxed wear. However, the details of each piece exude elegance.
Upon inquiry, it turns out the secret lies in the atelier employing craftsmen from sewing factories that had worked with several prestigious British brands.
This particular factory primarily produced outerwear and is home to artisans skilled in sewing materials like herringbone and gabardine.
This brand, known for its free-thinking layering and diverse material combinations, can create steady and robust wear thanks to the traditional techniques imbued in each item.
This unique aspect of Omar Afridi was evident at the exhibition.
Buyer's Recommended Item #1 [Wool Hemp Herringbone Series]
This season, our shop focuses on the herringbone drizzle jacket and the full-length wide pants, Savoir Trousers, the staple in the brand.
The drizzle jacket has an adjustable hem, allowing for a blouse-like fit. Its beautiful rounded silhouette combines the fabric's maturity and the charm of bomber jackets, making it versatile.
The Savoir Trousers feature a strong silhouette, emphasizing the fabric's stiffness.
Though slightly voluminous, they fit excellently around the hips. Anyone accustomed to wide pants will surely appreciate them.
Especially Recommended!
Particularly, the Totem Cargo Trousers made from the same material stand out.
Not only are they featured multiple times on the runway, but the same detail is also applied to the pants section of jumpsuits.
Their broad silhouette and the stiffness of the herringbone fabric complement each other, making them the star of Omar Afridi's collection.
We'd love to see them paired not just with other Omar Afridi styles but also with oversized pullovers come autumn.
Buyer's Recommended Item #2 [Anorak Parka Clima System + Membrane]
An anorak parka made from Loro Piana fabric. We hadn't often used this fabric brand in our shop, making it a fresh addition.
While the look is suit-like and luxurious, the material employs a carbon atom membrane called graphene to provide waterproof and breathable properties, known as the Loro Piana Clima System.
At first glance, it's a classic-looking material, but its high-tech functionality makes it a standalone representation of this season's PRIMITIVE TECH theme.
Buyer's Recommended Item #3 [Rajasthane Parka Wool Fleece ]
A peculiar item this season is a fleece parka, inspired by the traditional attire of men from Rajasthan, a state in northwest India. The unique design, a hole at the chest, faithfully captures the ethnic garment's details.
The designer's inspiration came from attending a techno festival in the forest.
Amid the crowd wearing technical clothing and sportswear, one woman danced in a draped shirt made of organic cotton, a turban on her head, and sandals. This encounter encapsulated the collection's theme, Primitive Tech.
In the photos, this parka is worn over the previously mentioned anorak parka. Though called a parka, it doesn't have a hood.
Made of 100% high-quality wool fleece, it offers excellent insulation and inherent antibacterial properties.
This item marries the functionality of fleece, typically associated with outdoor scenarios, with the details of ethnic attire.
The drawstring hem and waist zipper allow size and silhouette adjustments, making it versatile in styling.
Conclusion!
How was that?
I'm often drawn to brands like ZIGGY CHEN and JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE, known for duality and multiplicity in their designs.
Similarly, Omar Afridi embodies the fusion of the contradictory elements of Primitive Mode: (Primitive = basic level of comfort, convenience, or efficiency, Mode = fashion).
In recent times, many brands are seen predictable. However, Omar Afridi offers a unique new standard that fashion enthusiasts should definitely check out.
Regarding deliveries, excluding coats, we expect them very soon, around the middle of this month!
Reservations are already open on the Omar Afridi brand page, so come have a look!
Check out the list of products expected to arrive here.
Inquiries about available shops and items
All the items introduced in today's blog is available at FASCINATE KYOTO.
If you have any questions about the items, please feel free to contact us.
Inquire by e-mail