[Staff Column]JAN JAN VAN ESSCHE 21-22AW Collection SUNU

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This month, the 21-22 AW collection of many brands, both domestic and imported, has been launched, and the store has become more impressive than last month when the season was changing!

The other day, I wrote about the 21 -22 AW collection of {{widget type="Magento\\Catalog\\Block\\Category\\Widget\\Link" anchor_text="JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE" title="JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE" template="category/widget/link/link_inline.phtml" id_path="category/513"}} , which is one of my favorite brands, but this time, I am going to write about the 21 -22 AW collection by asking a few questions to designers about another favorite brand, JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE!

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Dive deep into the JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE 21-22AW Collection

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Following the 21 SS collection, JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE is the second remote buying for other imported brands.

Just like ZIGGY CHEN, you can't read what kind of collection they have every season, so this brand makes you excited about what kind of items they will have this season.

First, we introduce the season theme of the 21 -22 AW collection!

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2021-22AW Collection Theme [SUNU]

The theme is "SUNU" which means "ours" in the Wolof language, the language of the Wolof people who live in Senegal, Gambia and Mauritania.

It sums up the emotional connectedness of "unity," "vulnerability," and "inclusion."

This collection is based on a sense of responsibility towards each other and what surrounds us, the idea that "strong bonds" need to be valued and praised, but at the same time need to be protected.

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Presentation of a collection in a movie that transcends the framework of fashion

[Presentation of collections in a movie that transcends the framework of fashion]
This season, unlike the 21 SS collection which was suddenly presented in the virtual showroom, it was presented as a short movie focusing on one man.

The movie starts with a man making a phone call in a room.

After that, dance with various people of various races and genders.

There are no words or explanations other than the opening, and the movie that can be freely interpreted by the receiver seems to leave room for interpretation to the receiver, and I felt that it resonates with the concept of free spirit that JAN-JAN holds up in making clothes.

The full version is available on the brand homepage of JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE, so please check it out if you are interested!

The videos are focused on people rather than wear, and only a few of them actually incorporate the details of the items worn.

The clothes that were incorporated as part of each person's identity were unique but looked very natural, like the clothes that the performers usually wear.

This movie is really as high in quality as a short film, and I was curious who made it, so when I looked at the credits at the end, I realized that it was made by a person named Ramy Fouad Moharam.

I dug a little deeper and found out that he was a LOOK model from the 20 -21 AW collection that FASCINATE started selling!

If you go back in time, he made all the movies for the 21 SS collection and the next 22 SS collection.

He is also the model for this season's LOOK.

The movie's interpretation is really different from person to person, and there are some customers who interpret it as representing the current situation of COVID 19.

When I asked JAN-JAN about the movie, he said, "I didn't want to be too specific about the story or the characters, and I wanted to make it possible for viewers to create stories in their own minds. That's why we used the Tunisian Arabic language, the native language of Mohammed, who plays the main character in the phone scene above."

The movie is realistic as a whole, but somehow mysterious, and people of various races and genders who appear in the middle express the feeling in the main character, and I interpret it as the very thing which expresses the theme of this time, "SUNU" in other words, "unity," "fragility," and "comprehensiveness."

Not only do you enjoy clothes as a fashion item, but you can also enjoy watching this movie to share the differences in their interpretations and findings.

I could have interpreted it differently. If so, please let me know your opinion!

By the way, the dancers who appear in the movie this time are said to have been connected with JAN-JAN from the beginning as they have been doing dance projects.

Because we live in a time when people are becoming less and less connected with each other, we create works that emphasize the connection between people. In that respect, I think this work can feel the warm humanity of JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE.

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JAN-JAN's unique balance of three layered styles is the charm of the 21-22 AW collection.

[The JAN-JAN original balance made with 3 layer styles is attractive in the 21 -22 AW collection.]
Now, the introduction is getting longer, but I'm going to talk about clothes again this time.

Unlike ZIGGY CHEN, which I wrote on my last column blog, JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE was written after it arrived.

When I first saw the 21 -22 AW collection, I had a frank opinion that the wear developed this season had a higher level of one-step dressing than before.

The reason is that, in order to complete this season's JAN-JAN style, most of them are basically composed of 3 layers of tops, intermediate outer and outer, and there are more points to be paid attention to such as texture, color and silhouette than before.

At the moment, I took into consideration the budget aspect of our shop's purchase and the budget aspect when you buy all in one set.

Of course, if you are hungry for "The more difficult the dress, the more you want to show off!" and fashion like me, how do you wear this item? I think it was a fun collection just by thinking like that, but I understand that not all customers find fashion the best in their lifestyle.

Therefore, I spent a lot of time in buying this season, keeping the world view of JAN-JAN this season, and paying attention to how few pieces I can build a style.

The main items for this season are short outerwear and knit items that I personally felt had a good harvest.

Personally recommended items for this season are a short trench coat made of undyed yak wool and a padding jacket made of mud dyed silk.

As for the style in the photo, it can be combined with this season's JAN-JAN layered style, but it can also be worn simply over a T-shirt or a knit.

Of course, in order to enjoy the layered style that JAN-JAN wanted to propose, the padding vest and tunic are picked, but this item is mainly designed to be easy to use by itself.

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The pattern work is more sophisticated and incorporates elements of Western costume.

When I actually received the item, I felt the silhouette, the beautiful movement of the fabric, and the power of the material, which I can see through the sleeves, though it is the same as always with JAN-JAN wear.

In JAN-JAN, the kimono silhouette which can be said to be classic still exists, but this season's wear which has the elements of western clothes added strongly is

The technical pattern work is finished with a one-piece dress pattern without cutting and pasting the fabric as much as possible is left as it is, and by taking darts and tucks, many items that are close to the details of clothes are developed.

The pants have three tucks and darts on the hips to make the waist size slightly smaller than before, but it is made as a voluminous wide pants.

By doing this, there is no drape on the hips, and the hip area is more refreshing than before, like a simple trouser.

The shirt features a tuck in the center of the back to reduce the volume of the fabric on the back.

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The designer and buyer's favorite item this season is the use of Chinese intangible cultural heritage "Kouunsha (香雲紗)".

Among this season's items, I was personally interested in them and ordered JACKET # 44 PADDED MUD SILK.

By chance, JAN-JAN himself said this is his favorite item this season.

In the JAN-JAN collection look, which is particular about using natural materials, a jacket with luster that looks like nylon at a glance was used, so as soon as I looked at LOOK, I felt a strange feeling which is different from usual, and when I immediately checked the line sheet, the material was silk.

The place of origin of the fabric is also written as China, and when I was intrigued by the brand that had mainly used Japanese and Italian fabric so far, I found out that this fabric is a mud dyed silk called "Kouunsha (香雲紗)" that has a very long history in China.

The pronunciation is' Kouunsha (香雲紗)' It is said that the origin of the name is from the sound of "sound the same as" when you move around wearing clothes made of this fabric.

JAN-JAN, who regularly collects Japanese crafts and antiques, says, "I didn't know about the existence and culture of this fabric until I heard about it from people."

Of course, I didn't even know the existence of this fabric until I saw the JAN-JAN collection this time.

"Kouunsa (香雲紗)" is also used in traditional crafts and China dresses, and is now registered as an intangible cultural heritage. It is said that it was made by manual labor, so it became a high-class fabric, but it was popular as a fabric for ordinary people's clothes until the 1950s.

It is made of fabric that you can enjoy the change over time, so in a way, it is like a Chinese version of denim.

The characteristic of this fabric is that it has a brown color that comes out from under the black as you wear it, and you can enjoy the change over the years, so rich people in the old days in China used to wear new clothes for their servants, and they enjoyed wearing "Kouunsa (香雲紗)" that the brown came out and became soft.

The process is different, but the way to enjoy it is like vintage processed denim that is familiar to us.

I wanted to prepare images such as the production scene this time, but I gave up because the usage fee of the photo was surprisingly expensive ...

Instead, I wanted to provide a link to a Chinese article with images that are easy to imagine, but I couldn't put a link to it either, so please check out "Kouunsa (香雲紗)" if you are interested!

JAN-JAN, which is called "I like this fabric because it can look like modern industrial fabric depending on how it is used.", was designed as a padded jacket with batting and padded stitching.

When I saw LOOK, I felt it was like nylon, and it made me feel the texture that JAN-JAN wanted to express.

「I like this fabric because, depending on how you use it, it can be made to look like a modern industrial fabric.」JAN-JAN seems to have expressed itself by designing it as a padded jacket with padding, stuffing, and beaten stitching.

This season is a season concept called the collection which is more practical and more conscious of the elements of Western clothes than before.

I thought the lining of military outerwear was the design source, but surprisingly, he said, "Intuitively, in the process of design, it's such a look, and in fact, it's inspired by various periods and ethnic costumes."

Last year, it was a detail that strongly felt the Japanese element that is reminiscent of a short coat, but this season I think it has been incorporated into a design that is easy to use daily.

This item is made of a very maniac fabric, but it is surprisingly popular among women in the store, so it is good to wear it for couples.

I ordered this jacket this time, so I am still in a hurry, but I am looking forward to seeing how this jacket will look as it ages.

I ordered this jacket this time, so it's still too early to tell, but I'm really looking forward to seeing how this jacket will change over time.

The appearance of the fabric, which looks industrial and inorganic, gradually changes to an organic look, and this hidden dual aspect might have won my heart.

Some items are already sold out, but of course other items are also very good, so please check them out!

Inquiries about available shops and items

All the items introduced in today's blog is available at FASCINATE (Osaka Kita Horie).
If you have any questions about the items, please feel free to contact us.

Inquire by e-mail

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Shop info

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