[Staff Column] ZIGGY CHEN 21-22AW Collection SUGARDENS

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This is the time when items for the autumn and winter collection will be launched, but last month imported brands handled by our company are also releasing collections one after another.

In particular, the brands that I personally love, such as {{widget type="Magento\\Catalog\\Block\\Category\\Widget\\Link" anchor_text="ZIGGY CHEN " title="ZIGGY CHEN " template="category/widget/link/link_inline.phtml" id_path="category/369"}} and {{widget type="Magento\\Catalog\\Block\\Category\\Widget\\Link" anchor_text="JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE" title="JAN-JAN VAN ESSCHE" template="category/widget/link/link_inline.phtml" id_path="category/513"}}, have been presented with a different approach from the runway following the 21 -22 AW, and they are expressed as works that make me feel the philosophical part, thought and sensibility of each brand!

Both brands were movies with dancing, but ZIGGY CHEN mainly has clothes with original essence that is like transformed classical wear as before.

I felt it was a collection with a hidden performer wearing it, an unknown space, and a dark and mysterious atmosphere, and I felt that ZIGGY CHEN's creation to create the present item from the past item was still in existence. It may be because the clothes that always creates new things and gives you a nostalgic atmosphere is made by putting memories of the past, which is a proof of the designer's life, into the shape of clothes.

I would like to tell you more about the 22 SS collection, but if you haven't watched the movie yet, please check it out and feel the atmosphere of the 22 SS collection!

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Dissecting the ZIGGY CHEN 21 -22 AW collection!

Now, the main point is that ZIGGY CHEN, one of my favorite brands, informed me that their 1st delivery of the 21 -22 AW collection will finally arrive this month, so in this article, I will write about the ZIGGY CHEN 21 -22 AW collection! Since it is an imported brand, there are still many closed parts of the brand ..., or there are only a few stores handling it, so it is a brand that is hard to get the accurate and raw information.

This time, we asked ZIGGY himself some questions and he answered them.

I would like to know about the 2021 -22 AW collection including the words of the designer himself and what I felt when I saw this season's collection as a receiver. First of all, I would like to introduce the theme of the 21 -22 AW collection as a basic part that has not been released in the press.

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2021 -22 AW Collection Theme [SUGARDENS]

This theme is a coined word that is a combination of SUZHOU (Suzhou) and GARDENS (Gardens). It is a collection with a motif of the Suzhou Classic Garden, a classical story stage that is very familiar to Chinese people.

As a taboo in creation, the designer himself visited the Suzhou Classic Garden, which had been kept at a distance until now, and was inspired by the experience of looking for something that resonates with him from a new perspective outside the context of the classics and existing rules.

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Images from all angles, conveyor belts moving forward and humans retreating. This movie itself was very meaningful in that it showed the situation in China, but as I leave the feeling to the individual imagination and do not publish the official opinion, I dare not clarify here.

ZIGGY CHEN has not presented its collection open until the last few seasons. Prior to the 21 SS collection that was announced during the COVID-19, there was no collection announcement other than the installation at the Paris exhibition.

In the 21 -22 AW collection, a movie of the model was used to present the collection, so the details of the wear and the atmosphere of the collection were conveyed not only to the buyer but also to the end-user. Personally, I like the style of combining a coat and pants made of white thick rib corduroy fabric, and I actually ordered both the top and bottom individually.

Which LOOK did you like?

Since this brand is not available in Japan, you can only see a few product numbers in Japan.

Many people think that this brand has a small number of models in its collection, but in fact, the Paris showroom is not a joint exhibition, but a showroom by itself, with many samples prepared on 360 degree walls.

Of course, the items introduced in the 21 -22 AW collection movie are only a small part, so you can't see all the items even now when the collection was announced in the movie. That's why there was such an item when it was actually delivered! You can also enjoy surprises and new discoveries like this!

(The photo shows the actual showroom scene from the 20 -21 AW collection, which was last visited Paris.)

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Why have you presented your collection publicly in a runway-like format this season?

The reason for the public announcement of the collection in the form of this season's runway style But why did they choose to publish their collection publicly, even though they have not published their collection using movies or other media in a way similar to a runway like this one, or did they change their mind in light of the current state of affairs? I was curious and asked a question, but it seems that the Paris Fashion Week association asked a lot about this, and as for the way of presenting as ZIGGY CHEN, the closed presentation method as before might be ideal for them! It is an underground genre that is regarded as one of the values that only people who know it knows, but I think this collection announcement helped to spread the name of ZIGGY CHEN.

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Q.Are the print motifs seen in many works of this season related to Suzhou Classic Garden?

From now on, I will write about creation in question and answer format.

I didn't know about Suzhou Classic Garden, which is related to Sugarden, the theme of this collection, until I heard about the season concept of ZIGGY CHEN. I've only seen the photos on the internet myself, but it's a very beautiful place. If I have a chance to go to China someday, I would like to wear ZIGGY CHEN clothes and go there.

I wanted to prepare an image, but I could not find a free photo, so please check it out if you are interested! At the time of explaining the season concept, there was an explanation that this place had been kept at a distance as a taboo in creation, but I asked various questions about this season's concept such as why it was taboo, but unfortunately, I could not get an answer ・・・・

As I was not strong enough, the article was a little weak, but as I got to the end, they answered my attention to creation regardless of this term, so please watch it to the end!

----- Ryota -----

This season's patterned items, T-shirts, knitted items, etc., I saw many motifs like leaves of plants like bamboo leaves and feathers of birds. Was this inspired by the scenery in Suzhou Classic Garden?

A. I visit the garden myself and use the photos I took.

----- Mr.Zggy -----

Yes, I actually visited the garden and took these pictures myself before I started making the collection.

----- Ryota -----

I thought the motif was probably visually influenced by the landscape in the garden, but I was surprised to know that it was based on the photos I took. The shirt in this season's photo has a print of the scenery, and you can enjoy this season's style by just wearing it as an inner for a autumn/winter style that tends to be a single color.

This fabric has been used for lining, and is white as the base color. Depending on the item number, it is used for lining, but in our shop, the split color shirt that was made with a sample of green, which is usually used for lining, is also ordered for lining, so we plan to develop it with 2 colors of white, which is green and lining. This is a must-see item for fans, as other stores might not be able to handle orders with back side.

(Green)

(Backside White Sample Image)

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Q.What is the design intent of the window-like details used in this season's collection?

----- Ryota -----

Up until now, the clothes produced by ZIGGY were based on earth color and black, and even though they looked simple at a glance, they were very precise and didn't miss the details, and I had a strong impression that they were made with a sense of fun and attention to detail. This collection includes an outer with details like a window on the back of the body used by LOOK, and a design that has an impact when seen visually with a button that shows another lining.

I had a slightly different impression from the previous collections, but is there any meaning or intention of each detail?

A. I wanted to express the hierarchical structure through this season's details.

----- Mr.Ziggy -----

Much of this season's detail was inspired by the architectural elements of Suzhou Garden. At that time, gardens were often designed from the owner's life and preferences. Among them, my favorite element is the number of windows and gate frames in the garden, which have poetic variability that cuts and changes the landscape according to the position and angle of view.

These elements also create a hierarchical structure of the garden, giving you the pleasure of discovering things little by little, like peeling off layers one by one, rather than showing important things directly.

These landscaping ideas have something in common with my idea of making clothes. This hierarchical structure is what I wanted to express through this season's details.

----- Ryota -----

It is a very interesting idea to design the details of wear by applying it from a building. Indeed, when I was researching about Suzhou Classic Garden, a picture of a circular window designed to cut a round space appeared.

This item is made with attention paid to details such as the inside and the details, so I think it is a detail that makes good use of ZIGGY CHEN's product features that emphasize the beauty of the details that can be seen when the part is cut. I was convinced by the answer that this item expresses the concept of layering, which is essential to make fashion look unique, in a new way.

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Q.Why do you keep the axis of ZIGGY CHEN every season and try a new design with trendiness?

----- Ryota -----

As one of the bases of ZIGGY CHEN's design, I feel the tailor style seen in European brands, especially Italian brands, but it always includes the modern pattern work, the challenging spirit of new design, and the design which catches the trend well, and I am excited as a fan of myself to see what kind of collection will be released in this season. I think it is important for a brand how to express the trendiness in the genre of fashion in their own way, but the brands that are based on the tailored style in the underground genre that we deal with from the general point of view tend to continue to make the same shape almost exclusively.

I personally feel that ZIGGY CHEN expresses the challenge of new design and trends overwhelmingly well in the frame of every season's brand image.

For example, the LOOK, which is made of Dirty White's thick rib corduroy that I personally liked at the beginning, is a combination of all kinds of trendy elements such as corduroy, a white winter style that has been often seen in ladies since last year, a Chester coat with a thick peak lapel that attracts attention, and a check pattern.

In addition, the color is not pure white, but Dirty White, which has a rustic feel. The combination of earth color, silhouette, and other items, which was originally my specialty, makes this item feel like a new item with a ZIGGY CHEN feel.

----- Ryota -----

Other than that, it has a style with a lot of trendy check patterns, and the same wide silhouette has been changed to a modern length balance little by little, so you can feel the strong sense of design in addition to the high perfection as clothes.

Why are you always challenging new designs and being sublimated in the essence of ZIGGYCHEN?

A.By challenging a new design, you will be able to grow yourself.

----- Mr.Ziggy -----

Once each season's production is complete, the mind naturally switches to the concept of the next season. In the next season, we often focus on ideas we've never tried before, things we've tried before that have room for improvement, and things we can add new things to that.

The process of making clothes is a mixture of fun and spiciness, but when you finish making your collection, it becomes one end of the process.

I think it is essential to take on new challenges every season because in the long run these challenges will definitely lead to growth.

----- Ryota -----

The stoic attitude which keeps challenging always appears in the product. While most brands are developing their collections based on standard items, it is always surprising that they continue to develop items with this much power every season.

This is an irresistible collection for challengers who are always looking for new stimulation. Of course, we also carry the corduroy series, random check coats and shirts that I asked you this time, so please check them out!

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Q.Why did you mix metal into the characteristic thick corduroy?

----- Ryota -----

This item is used for this season's most favorite LOOK, which was written in the previous question because it is an act of revenge to the corduroy fabric with thick ribs which I could not buy individually at 20 -21 AW last year.

Dirty White's corduroy coats and pants, which are mixed with metal, are going to be in season, but I can't wait for them to arrive. The wide rib corduroy fabric is rarely seen in men's wear. In addition, the white color creates a winter look, and perhaps because of the spatial effect, it is a strange fabric that does not feel stiff at all even when combined with a coat and pants.

However, there was one point that I was a little concerned about this fabric. Why is this thick corduroy fabric mixed with 4% metal ・・・

The cotton ramie and metal twill fabric that was used for the jackets and pants that I bought individually in the 21 SS collection has wrinkles memorized in the shape so that it fits to the body just by wearing it a little. I was surprised that it changed like vintage wear.

----- Ryota -----

However, I thought that such a change would be difficult to happen with this fabric, so I was wondering if there is any other reason why I mixed metal.

A.It was necessary to express the texture with the core that I wanted.

----- Mr.Ziggy -----

No matter how heavy I put on the 100% cotton corduroy, I couldn't make something that I liked. A small amount of metal fiber has been added to create a soft texture that is characteristic of cotton and has a core.

In other words, the purpose of using it here is not to make wrinkles, but to give it strength as if the core remained a little.

----- Ryota -----

As for the fabric mixed with metal, it has been seen in Italian brands since about 8 years ago, but since it was mainly made with wrinkles based on the shape memory image, I felt that it was used to create a solid look of the fabric itself was a very novel idea!

I felt the progress of the technology in that each fiber is thinner than the metal fiber that was used at that time and I don't feel the prickling feeling like before, but I felt that I was touched by the depth of the fabric and ZIGGY's strong inquisitive spirit.

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Q.Why have you not made items made of silk?

----- Ryota -----

As you may know from the previous question, ZIGGY CHEN wears are not clothes that aim for elegance that gives you a sense of luxury that you can see in general, but rather, there are many items that feel elegant when you actually wear them, although they have a lot of use-like designs expressed by earth color allover print and low-temperature dyeing. For example, it has an antique texture like an item of an antique super brand, but it feels like there is elegance at the bottom.

In particular, this season it is made of lustrous fabric like satin, but I have never seen silk fabric, which is synonymous with elegant material. I thought it was surprising because the fabric looks very compatible with ZIGGY CHEN wear, but is there any reason not to use silk fabric?

A.Possibly for future collections.

----- Mr.Ziggy -----

It's true that silk has not been used in the collection so far. I used it partially, but most of the main material I use is a little 'fleshy', maybe because of my own taste. However, it is quite possible to use it in future collections.

Q.Why are you particular about the coloring of each part and the design and sewing of the back side?

----- Ryota -----

This is a story regardless of this season, but regardless of the season, ZIGGY CHEN's wear has a color scheme that gives a sense of unity even when combined with the fabric on the back of the pocket, the piping fabric of the jacket or coat, or a different fabric series, and there are many points that you can feel the attention paid to other than the sewn parts.

----- Ryota -----

Is there anything particular about the color of each part on the back? Also, why do you keep sticking to the design of the back?

A.I believe those elaborate products have a common beauty. And I hope it will be used for a long time.

----- Mr.Ziggy -----

I think that the obsession with the design and production of the inside of clothes comes from the idea of clothes that comes from being a male designer and the idea of products as luxury goods.

In addition to clothes, I think there is a common beauty in elaborate products like Leica cameras. Similarly, I think there are other ways to enjoy clothes other than wearing them.

Another reason for sticking to parts that cannot be seen at a glance is the wish that our clothes will be used for a long time. Even if they are eventually sold as second-hand goods, they will continue to be valuable, and even if they become old, they will not be discarded if there are people who are interested in them.

As a manufacturer of clothing, we consider how we can extend the life of our products throughout the entire process, from material selection to design and production, and we are working to improve our products on a daily basis. Some clients wear our clothes inside out. You can feel the joy of wearing clothes, and I think it's a great way to feel different with one piece of clothing.

----- Mr.Ziggy -----

Of course, I am very particular about the lining. The cotton cupra stripe fabric that we have been using since S/S 2020 was originally developed in Italy, and we made it by ourselves from the machine shop to the dyeing factory. In the sense of not being caught up in time and fashion, I wanted to obscure the seasonality of fashion by using it continuously based on the classic stripe pattern.

Also, sewing in our thinking about clothes is a very important part of the perfection of clothes. Just as each stroke in a painting is meaningful, I think the details are the most important factor in creating the overall nuance. This is also related to the design of the back side of clothes, but I try to make clothes with strong vitality that can be used for a long time.

----- Ryota -----

It was not only about making high-quality products with particular attention, but also I understood the point of creation based on the perspective of sustainability, which is becoming important in any genre.

In fact, when I first got my first ZIGGY CHEN item, I remember feeling that it's time for these clothes to continue to exist for 10 years and become valuable as a new vintage.

At the same time, the words of the previous workplace owner, "The reason why military vintage continues to exist is because it is a country that was earnestly made with money." came back to me.

I feel that ZIGGY CHEN's clothes are something that will be passed down to future generations while enjoying fashion, rather than just wearing simple clothes made of environmentally friendly materials that you won't get tired of. With the development of social media, the number of clothes designed only for appearance has increased, and the cycle of mass production and mass disposal, which is also a problem of the genre of fashion business, has accelerated. I think it was a wonderful content that touched the core of what I felt.

Since this is the first time I asked a question to a designer and wrote about the fabric, I think there were some inadequacies and parts where I was not able to ask the question properly, what do you think?

The concept of pret-a-porter that came out as high-grade ready-made clothes was antithesis, and the genre called Artisan (I don't really want to use this word because I feel it is different from the current general definition), which is not mass production, but as much as we can make by ourselves, we make what we need.

I think ZIGGY CHEN is the brand with the spirit of Artisan in the true sense, while "clothes that look like that" are now categorized.

Products scheduled to arrive

Inquiries about available shops and items

All the items introduced in today's blog is available at FASCINATE (Osaka Kita Horie).
If you have any questions about the items, please feel free to contact us.

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